In a rare display of consensus, almost everyone at this year’s Indian International Jewellery Show (IIJS) has expressed praise of and satisfaction with the show. After a couple of years of difficulty regarding scheduling, (the 2005 show was marred by flooding, while in 2006 it was held during the holiday season in May), organizers at last seem to have found the optimum time to hold the show.

 

“Business has been good. The show has been timed perfectly to fall just before the buying season begins,” said Arun Bhatnagar, COO of D’damas. “Eighty to ninety percent of our business here is reordering, so my only complaint could be that we are not getting enough new customers.”

 

He reported steady traffic since the show’s opening, spread evenly throughout the day. “People seem to have realized that it is better for them to come in at non-peak times. We made our first sale today at 10 am,” he said in disbelief.

 

D’damas launched two new lines at the show, Oshii, a pearl and diamond collection and Saumya, a line of religions icons ranging from crosses, depictions of mosques, Sikh emblems and Hindu gods. The 18 karat gold and diamond line has been the most popular collection the company is offering at the show.

 

Israeli-based Lili Diamonds is exhibiting at the show for the first time. “Our objective… was not necessarily to sell but to help better assess the market,” said Yoav Tzuker. “It is part of our strategy to enter growing markets.”

 

Overall business, he reported, has been good. “There has been a lot of traffic and some business. We will be able to better judge just how good the show has been when we do our follow ups. Many new customers have come in and set up meetings with us for Hong Kong. Hopefully that is where they will do their actually buying.”

 

Regarding the type of goods that had attracted the most interest, Tzuker said that square, emerald and Asher cut diamonds had been particularly in demand. However, he also said that many people were looking for lower quality and colors than the merchandise on display.

 

“There has been a lot of interest in big stones over 1 carat, with many enquiries for stones of JKL/VS1 to SI1,” said Rajesh Rathod of Antwerp-based Gembel. “In addition, many people have been asking for 3 carat couples.”

 

Akhil Jain of KGK Creations also appeared pleased. “Although the first two days were a little slow,” he said, “we are very happy. This year for the first time, we decided not to offer loose diamonds and instead have been concentrating on our diamond jewelry, especially traditional goods such as bangles and necklaces. We have also launched our new range of diamond rings and bangles. There has been some foreign interest in the line but the majority of attention has come from Indian clients.”

 

Style-wise, the show displayed a fusion of eastern and western offerings – from traditional Jaipur-origin designs to the hoops that have characterized the market for a number of seasons now. Pink seemed to be the color of choice, especially for local jewelry.  

 

While Indian-style jewelry is still very much a local affair, the heavy, bold and colorful designs embodied in traditional jewels could be about to hit foreign markets in a big way. Mumbai-based H. Ram Chander Soni Jewellers specializes in traditional jewelry from the Mogul period. The pieces are made of 22 or 24 karat gold, set with rubies, emeralds, tourmalines and uncut diamonds.

 

The jewelry, says Saroj Durlabhji, is especially popular with the high fashion crowd as well as with brides. The trend for traditional jewelry went away for a while, she says, but recently there has been a resurgence; and this time, it looks like the non-Indian world is beginning to take notice.

 

“Just this morning a man from LA who sells jewelry to many Hollywood stars came to the booth,” says Durlabhji. “He said that he is interested in buying many of the pieces but that the diamonds would have to be of a much higher quality than the ones we presently sell. I told him that it would cost him at least ten times the price, which he agreed to.” So, if Jennifer Lopez should turn up on the red carpet wearing Indian-inspired jewels, you’ll know where she got them.