A Step in Time: Fusion From a Jewelry Brand

Ellen Spann, PR director of De Beers Diamond Jewellers, says the collection grew out of a desire to put something new on the market, and to take a completely new approach to watches. While it’s true that these watches are different, they can be seen as part of a wider trend in the fusion of watches and jewelry – and the blurring of the line between the two.

The Talisman Suntime was the first watch released. “It’s a rough diamond and talisman piece of jewelry that tells the time,” says Spann. In other words, it’s a piece of jewelry first and a watch second. “Absolutely,” she says. “It came about from a request from our customers. We’re making fine diamond watches. The innovative thing about it is that it looks like a diamond bracelet that just happens to tell the time.” The fact that the piece has gears and a face with hands is secondary, and, according to Spann, this is the whole point.

“We’re changing the way that people look at watches. And it’s risky, of course, but we’re seeing a good return on it.” But what makes these watches so appealing? Spann sees it as tapping into the pre-existing market for versatile and unique watches that act as part of a larger wardrobe for both men and women. “People today, especially professional men, have a wardrobe of watches – one for the day, one for the evening, sports watches and others, just like a woman has heels of differing heights.”

After releasing the Talisman Suntime watch, the first Talisman collection was launched in November 2007, following a four-year long design stage. “We didn’t want to release anything until we were absolutely certain that we liked it – sure that we were completely satisfied,” says Spann.

The collection’s design of is focused on the talisman as an amulet, “revealing time through the mystique and power of diamonds.” The newest release, the Talisman 8, is “symbolic of the eternity and power in the diamond’s natural shape, the octahedron. De Beers marks the time in a revolution of rough cut and polished diamonds.” It comes in a range of automatic, manual and quartz movements and is available in white or yellow gold, with rough and baguette diamonds only, as well as un-paved, semi-pave and full pave.

In addition, the company recently launched the Talisman Suntime in white gold and the Talisman Mini Suntime Pave, to complement the pre-existing Talisman Suntime in yellow gold. These watches “feature the signature Suntime design, incorporating mythical Talisman Medallions traditionally worn for protection, good luck and strength.”

There are also men’s and ladies’ watches, although Spann notes that consumers are crossing the gender divide. “We have strictly men’s watches that women are purchasing as well. They like the large face. We also have had a lot of men buying our diamond-covered watches, which were made specifically for women.”

The watch collection, plus a few one-off high-end pieces – the Dragonfly and Riviera – sell at all of De Beers Diamond Jewellers’ retail boutiques. Price points range from £7,900 to £25,000 ($15,600 to $49,400).

In terms of sales, although the U.S. is an important market, Spann is careful not to discount the UK. “The UK is a big market for us. It is the hub of all of Europe…and Russia as well.” The Asian market is also very important for the brand, Spann notes.

She also asserts that because the watches are so unique (how many other watches have you seen with rough diamonds set in the dial?), the brand is very niche, and there is no clear source of competition from any other watch companies. She also wants to make very clear that the brand’s focus is on jewelry, not on watchmaking. “We won’t let the watches take over. We’re doing it as a service to our customers, but our main goal is to create something that’s in line with the high quality people have come to expect from De Beers.”