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Innovative Design Underscores Inaugural IIJS-Signature show

May 03, 08 by

By Edahn Golan

 

Large, beautiful diamond jewelry items glistened in display cases that lined the quiet and cool corridors of IIJS Signature, Goa – a small and exclusive trade show that included 98 hand-picked Indian manufacturers exhibiting to a select group of 350 international and local buyers. Organized by the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), the emphasis of the show was on design and innovation.

The designs at the event, mostly priced from $1,000 and up, were meant to serve as a showcase of the ongoing effort by the Indian industry to develop the scope of its business. Known primarily for its cost effective diamond manufacturing, India wants the world to know it has expanded into manufacturing bigger and better quality goods and good quality jewelry.

The Indian market is facing a number of challenges, including increasing fears of a recession in the U.S. – India’s main market – and a decline in the willingness of banks to increase credit levels, which are pushing it to look inwards at the fast growing local market.

“There are so many companies in the market, that you have to do something different to be noticed,” said Tarun Jawani of Mimansa Jewellers about the challenges jewelry manufacturers are facing. An innovative approach to the Indian market could be seen in the introduction of baguette-set jewelry in white gold – a combination that has not been popular in the past.

One of the designers looking to the local market was Anup Bohra of Jewels Emporium who creates large, one-off, handmade items. The pieces, which feature natural scenes, are aimed only at Indian consumers, and rely heavily on the use of enamel. “We studied a lost French art of creating enamel without a back,” Bohra said, showing a semi-translucent item depicting an underwater scene with fish and vegetation and set with semi-precious gems and yellow gold.

 
TradItIonal Jaipuri Necklace
wIth a Modern TwIst By
BIrdhIchand Ghanshyamdas
Jewelers

Another exhibitor referencing nature was Navin Jashnani of Sama Jewellery, who headed the organizing efforts for the show on behalf of the GJEPC. His booth displayed elaborate and colorful designs inspired by nature in floral shapes set with rose cut and baguette diamonds, as well as precious stones such as emeralds and sapphires. As one of the organizers, Jashnani viewed the show with a long-term perspective. “I had some very good sales and orders,” he said, adding that he was counting on the contacts made at the show to increase his business, although he acknowledged that it would take months to convert them into clients. Nevertheless, he viewed the show as a success asserting that, “We have seen a lot of good quality visitors here.”

Reves, part of the Lakhi Group, stood out for its innovative designs. The company offered modular designs suitable for use on a variety of different occasions – be they casual or more dressy events. The pieces can also be adapted to fit different color ensembles.


One such item was a squarish white gold ring set with tiny diamonds. It can be worn on its own, or can be augmented with “add-ons” – one that places large diamonds in the four corners or one with large color precious stones in the corners.

Another innovative piece was a pendant, which consisted of a small ‘base’ pendant with two attachments that turn it into a medium size item or a large statement piece when both attachments are added. This type of jewelry ‘combo’ item offers versatility in both looks and cost .

 
TradItIonal Jaipuri Necklace
wIth a Modern TwIst By
BIrdhIchand Ghanshyamdas
Jewelers

Over at the Jouel Sculpt booth, the company took a different twist on traditional design with its Dokra collection. “We took tribal design and manufacturing style to create something very different,” said owner Hemant Shah. The original manufacturing method using bees wax was emulated in the new designs that are characterized by long concentric lines in brown gold, accentuated by diamonds set in yellow or white gold.

On a more practical level, CVM Jewels sought to resolve matching problems in brownish goods in particular. The company has a unique solution – creating large yellow gold bracelets with  different angles and setting the diamonds of different sizes and color hues in a seemingly accidental manner. The result is a “free spirited” item that can easily accommodate the manufacturers’ varied goods.


While typical buyers in India tend to come from the U.S., Europe and Far East, show organizers invited buyers from countries such as Saudi Arabia, Turkey and Iran, and even a delegation from neighboring Pakistan, a country with whom India has tense relations, all with the idea of expanding small markets and compensating for the U.S. market as it rolls into a recession.


Despite the range of attendees, exhibitors expressed mixed feelings about the show. They commented that  they had  expected to see more buyers and business than the show produced. Despite this, they responded positively about their plans to attend again next year. All in all, existing and new buyers placed orders, and a few exhibitors noted that the orders were very large ones.

The show organizers, however, expressed satisfaction with IIJS Goa. “This is the first such show of GJEPC, and it will highlight India’s capabilities to manufacture jewelry in terms of design, craftsmanship and quality at par with international centers in the world,” said GJEPC Chairman Sanjay Kothari.

 
Japanese buyers at IIJS Show

“The IIJS Signature is going to send a loud message to the gem and jewelry fraternity across the world that India has moved from being recognized merely for its labor intensive skills, to excellence in design and craftsmanship,” concluded Navin Jashnani, convener of the IIJS Sub Committee.

Diamond Index
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